| Caused by the same pathogen as Microdochium
patch, this disease forms smaller patches than gray
snow mold, and the diseased turf can take a copper to
red, or pink tinge depending on the environmental conditions
(See Photos). The disease is also favored by
higher temperatures than gray snow mold (>40 F) and
is often a late winter/early spring disease.
Pink snow mold fungi are also more pathogenic than gray,
leading to severe infections in the crown and stolons
of plants and long term loss of infected plants.
Cultural controls:
FALL: Apply fertilizer at least a few weeks
before snow cover, with slow release forms of nitrogen
being preferred. Continue to mow grass until
late fall to insure the snow does not fall on a tall
canopy.
SPRING: Promote rapid drying and warming
of disease prone areas by removing snow and improving
drainage. Lightly fertilize to encourage new
growth, but not too much.
Chemical controls:
For preventative applications, apply as close to
first snowfall as possible. Mixtures of chlorothalonil
+ iprodione (i.e. Chipco 26GT + Daconil) work well
for snow mold suppression, as does PCNB. There
is some risk of phytotoxicity with PCNB if warm weather
(>80 F) occurs up to 3 months after application.
Fungicides in the DMI or strobilurin group also control
pink snow mold.
Unlike gray snow mold, curative applications after
the snow melts are a good idea if you have pink snow
mold since this fungus can still be active at higher
temperatures.
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Photo 1.
Photo 2.
Photo 3.
(click on an image to
enlarge it.)
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