Interactive Turf Menu

   
     

PEST BULLETIN

Pink Snow Mold

April 4, 2003

November 11 - - With the wet conditions and lower temperatures, we may start seeing activity from cool weather pathogens before winter sets in. If the conditions are right this winter, we won't see gray snow mold until after the snow melts, but pink snow mold could become active before snowfall. This is especially true for today's conditions: cloudy, morning drizzle, and mid '50s. North Chicago courses should be on the lookout for this disease, and if it does show up a curative fungicide application may be necessary before the usual preventative application (which should be applied as close to snowfall as possible).

April 4 - - Pink snow mold has exploded here on the Midwest Golf House putting green over the last week. In honesty, our preventative application was probably not put out at a high enough rate last fall, so we paid the price and are going to reapply. Only a few patches were first noticed as we pulled off the protective cover from a portion of the green. Over the last few days these patches have multiplied to 15-20 patches. Another factor conducive to our outbreak is that mulch was used as a winter protectant over the seedlings as well as the cover.

Other reports of this disease have been very widespread, and were limited to areas under covers, or low, wet areas that are predominately Poa annua. Gray snow mold, unlike this disease, will probably not be a problem this year at all due to the lack of snow cover during the winter.

Overview:

Caused by the same pathogen as Microdochium patch, this disease forms smaller patches than gray snow mold, and the diseased turf can take a copper to red, or pink tinge depending on the environmental conditions (See Photos).   The disease is also favored by higher temperatures than gray snow mold (>40 F) and is often a late winter/early spring disease.   Pink snow mold fungi are also more pathogenic than gray, leading to severe infections in the crown and stolons of plants and long term loss of infected plants.

Cultural controls:

FALL:   Apply fertilizer at least a few weeks before snow cover, with slow release forms of nitrogen being preferred.   Continue to mow grass until late fall to insure the snow does not fall on a tall canopy.

SPRING:   Promote rapid drying and warming of disease prone areas by removing snow and improving drainage.   Lightly fertilize to encourage new growth, but not too much.

Chemical controls:

For preventative applications, apply as close to first snowfall as possible.   Mixtures of chlorothalonil + iprodione (i.e. Chipco 26GT + Daconil) work well for snow mold suppression, as does PCNB.   There is some risk of phytotoxicity with PCNB if warm weather (>80 F) occurs up to 3 months after application.   Fungicides in the DMI or strobilurin group also control pink snow mold.

Unlike gray snow mold, curative applications after the snow melts are a good idea if you have pink snow mold since this fungus can still be active at higher temperatures. Click here for differences in control recommendations between the two.

 

Photo 1.   "Classic" Pink Snow Mold

Photo 2.   Early MGH Pink Snow Mold

Photo 3.   Advanced Pink Snow Mold

(click on image to enlarge it.)




Photo #1.   The pink tinge of the patch margins is very diagnostic of this disease.   However, this symptom, caused by sporulation of the pathogen, is not always present.


Photo #2.   April 1, 2003: Picture of the early symptoms of the outbreak here at the Midwest Golf House. Note active patches are bronze colored here and not pink.


Photo #3.   April 4, 2003: Picture of the more advanced stages of the disease here at Golf House.

webmaster@interactiveturf.com